The spread of specialty coffee and the now ubiquitous flat white is often seen as a manifestation of gentrification. This controversial social process is evident in many British cities, and Leith has undoubtedly seen a great deal of it in recent years. The extent to which the area has changed still takes some people’s breath away.

The speed of change manifested in the spread of coffee culture can be unnerving, even discombobulating. It connects to a more general unease about trends in contemporary society.

Specialty coffee places are sometimes considered places where only certain social groups are welcome; a young, laptopping, cashless, ‘woke’ metropolitan elite.

That the changes typified by ‘posh’ bakeries and coffee bars benefit certain groups at the expense of others pervades discussions of urban transformation and transport policy.

In Edinburgh, it’s commonly suggested that change in the city is being driven towards tourism ‘a tartan Disney world’, universities ‘more bloody student flats’ and that little is done for ‘the locals’. Underpinning this is the idea that there are unaccountable elites determining change, taking little heed of the local citizens.

However, many coffee businesses are expressly local in character; they emphasise their links to roasters and other suppliers in and around the city. What we see therefore are competing versions of the local, the authentic. Do they have to be competing visions or is harmonious synthesis possible?

One coffee business that emphasises its roots in the local community is a relative newcomer to the city’s coffee scene; Little Havana Coffee Store at 94 Leith Walk. This pintsize takeaway and coffee supplier is an offshoot of the tobacco store next door, The Pipe Shop, established in 1957.

For proprietor Steven MacKenzie, it was their deep knowledge of the area that meant they felt well-placed to diversify. While he concedes that rum and whiskey might seem the natural path for The Pipe Shop , Steven feels that coffee fits the zeitgeist much better. He admits, “dealing with drunk punters” was not something he wanted. Coffee has a different, more chilled vibe. So far he’s enjoyed “good feedback and footfall” and feels the business is evolving nicely.

It’s a family business with Steven’s wife and daughter also working in the shop. They have a good number of regulars but are equally welcoming to new customers. It has built up mutually supportive relationships with other businesses in the area.

In particular, Steven points people in the direction of Kvasa Bakery “those guys really deserve to do well; they work very long hours”. Remedy up the road “has the best breakfasts in town”.

He feels that there is a gap in the market for places such as Little Havana, offering something a bit different from the chains and the specialty places, such as Artisan Roast, just down the road.

He sees Little Havana as primarily a coffee supplier, offering an extensive range of beans. They presently have about 30 coffees but hopes to expand that to 50, extending the range of countries represented: “our place isn’t a homage to any particular type of bean or region.”

For espresso-based drinks they usually offer a fairly dark roasted Brazilian blend, a bit different to the lighter, fruitier roasts prioritised by most specialty places. A darker roast is something more familiar to those from southern Europe. A sensible option given the number of Mediteraneans in Leith, even post-Brexit.

For Steven, it’s a learning process, with the business evolving organically as he meets new customers and engages with new suppliers. He’s also planning to extend the range of teas available. “I feel that with the amount of good cafes around here and places like Pekoe Tea, this area can become a centre for quality teas and coffee.”

On a bench outside you can watch the trams trundle past and cyclists zigzagging down the walk. On a late-summer morning, it was warm enough for iced coffee, creating a bit of a continental feel. Steven feels the trams coming to Leith has seen a boost for business, including his: “it’s helping to bring people to Leith.”

The area is changing, such as the pub next door; which has gone from a spit and sawdust place to one with a noticeably ‘hipster clientele’. He believes Leith retains its distinct character, and proudly stocks The Leither.

Above all, Little Havana manifests a passion for coffee and a desire to constantly expand their knowledge of beans and brewing methods. The next stage of the business will be to recruit an experienced barista: “I’d like to give them a lot of autonomy about the beans and blends we use.”

Already, Little Havana has shown promise and is an example of the way in which the very best places serve great coffee but also act as vibrant communal hubs. Demonstrating that the rise of coffee culture has the potential to enrich an area, not strip away its character. ■